BEIT TICHO

Tucked away in the very centre of downtown Jerusalem, just off the bustling Jaffa Road and overshadowed by a  block of flats in the process of construction is a small oasis in the form of a beautiful garden which belongs to one of the first buildings in Jerusalem to have been built outside the city’s walls.  Beit Ticho or Ticho House, has been for many years an excellent fish and dairy restaurant and the garden is a favourite venue  for summer parties Over the years, we have enjoyed many wedding, Bar and Bat mitzvah celebrations there.  On  summer evenings, the garden is the perfect place to eat, in cooler weather the dining room is always warm and cheerful, the excellent quality of the  fish and dairy menu never varies.

Ticho House was built in 1880 by an Arab dignitary, Aga Rashid Nahishibi who built it as a summer villa. Among the house’s first occupants was the family of a notorious antiquities forger by the name of Shapira whose daughter described the house in her memoires, La Petite Filles de Jerusalem. In 1924 the house was bought by the Ticho family, Dr Avraham Albert Ticho and his cousin, Anna, were born in Moravia, then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, at the end of the last century.  Dr. Ticho studied medicine in Vienna where he specialised in ophthalmology, Anna studied art, also in Vienna.  In 1912, Dr. Ticho came to Jerusalem to open an eye-clinic, Anna followed him and they married in the same year.  They converted the lower floor of the house into an eye-clinic which served the population of Jerusalem, rich and poor alike, until Dr. Ticho died in 1960.  At first, the then barren landscape of Jerusalem had such a negative impact on Anna that she was unable to draw or paint at all but during the time that her husband was stationed in Damascus in World War 1, she took up drawing again.  On their return, as well as serving as assistant to her husband in his clinic, she began going out into the Jerusalem landscape, using different mediums to record what she saw.  Her work became widely acclaimed and examples are displayed in many museums around the world.  Our particular favourites are her delicate paintings of spring time scenes in Jerusalem portraying almond blossom in full bloom.  She won many awards for her work, among them the Israel Prize which she received in 1980. She continued to live and work in the house after her husband’s death until her own death in 1980, when, as a token of her love for Jerusalem, she bequeathed it together with its library and collection of art of antique Chanukah lamps, collected by her husband, to the people of the city to serve as a public centre of art.

Now Ticho House, as well as being a restaurant, is the downtown section of the Israel Museum, part museum, part, art-gallery and also has an extensive library of books about Jerusalem, art and literature.  It is also the venue for concerts and varied cultural events. If you have not already visited it, both for a delicious meal or to enjoy Anna Ticho’s paintings and sketches and the various other collections, we strongly recommend that you do so.

PURE GOLD AND HASIDISM

 

As befits Israel’s capital city, Jerusalem is home to a great variety of museums, large and small.  Going into Google, we found a list of 33, some of which we hadn’t even heard. We already have the unknown ones in mind for visits later in the year and, if they are of sufficient interest, as subjects for future articles.

THE BIBLE LANDS MUSEUM

The Bible Lands Museum, which is across the road from the well-known, recently modernized and re-built Israel Museum, is at present celebrating its 20^th anniversary by displaying a magnificent exhibition entitled Pure Gold. This amazing exhibition shows what an important part gold plays in the history of the Jewish people, in the Bible it is mentioned more than any other metal, in fact 385 times.  The Hebrew language contains many phrases and expressions for the word gold which are used to express abundance, goodness, quality and beauty. There are a large and varied number of exquisite objects in this exhibition, including some of the oldest golden objects in the world. Much of the jewellery, mostly from Greece and Rome are designs that women would happily wear today, although maybe not some of the earrings which look as if their weight might do serious damage to ones’ ear lobes.  There are Estrucan fibulae (pins), belt buckles worn by soldiers in ancient China, delicate golden wreaths dedicated to pagan gods and goddesses, straps made of miniscule golden threads and several examples of a sophisticated type of gold-work called granulation.  Of particular interest to us was an amulet that once belonged to a young Jewish woman called Klara who lived about 1,400 years ago and when about to give birth, felt the need of a good luck charm. The amulet consists of a spell inscribed inside a band of thin gold which she would have rolled up and worn next to her body.  We hoped, as we looked at it, that it ensured her an easy labour and the birth of a healthy baby.  This exhibition warrants more than one visit as watching all the fascinating videos dotted around the exhibition, which explain different methods of making and fashioning gold could take several hours.

A WORLD APART NEXT DOOR

On the other side of the road, in the Israel Museum, is a completely different kind of exhibition, with the above title, followed by the explanation,  A glimpse into the life of Hasidic Jews. Through photographs, films, music and exhibits of clothing and ritual objects it highlights a Hasidic culture that few of us know about.  The Exhibition endeavours to give the visitor a glimpse into this rich social and spiritual, but, to us bizarre, way of life, which revolves around its spiritual leader, the Rebbe. The rather sad impression that we were left with was that the men had much the better time of it in this environment, always seen at various weddings and celebrations, drinking, singing and dancing, while their wives were shown, drably dressed and huddled together, watching the proceedings from a distance.  Our hearts went out to the young, heavily veiled bride, shown in one film, who was being led blindly round and round a dance floor on a ribbon (reminiscent of a dog on a lead) by her famous rebbe father, in front of hundreds of watching Hasidic men.  It is indeed strange to think that in Jerusalem, we exist side by side with this branch of Judaism and yet know so little about it.  This exhibition aims to enlighten the public but it still left us with our minds full of questions.

 

NEWS ABOUT ISRAEL THAT TOU ARE UNLIKELY TO FIND IN THE MEDIA

·         Archeologists have discovered an ancient synagogue, dating from the fourth and fifth centuries in the Galilee region of northern Israel.  Its well-preserved, mosaic floor depicts the story of Samson, and also what are apparently two female faces as well as Hebrew  inscriptions.

·         Another significant archeological discovery has been the uncovering of 14 clay jugs containing seeds of 3,400  year-old burnt wheat at Tel Hazor in the Upper Galilee.  Tel Hazor National Park is recognized as one of Israel’s most important archeological sites, from the 18^th to the 9^th centuries BCE it was the largest fortified city in the country and had commercial ties with both Babylon and Syria.  The Book of Joshua describes Hazor as the “head’ of several kingdoms that united to fight the Israelites.  In 2005 it was designated a UNESCO World heritage Site.

(Israel Ministry of Tourism)

·         The two-year old Israeli company, Immune Pharmaceuticals, is emerging as a leader in the use of “monoclonal antibodies’ for the treatment of cancer.  They are developing new ways to use these antibodies which are found in drugs such as Herceptin for breast cancer, Remicade to treat auto-immune diseases and Erbitux for head, neck and colorectal cancer.  Israel’s Weizmann Institute of Science played a significant role in developing these drugs which are prescribed selectively to patients likely to respond best.  “This is a big step up from the 1990s when everyone with a certain disease got the same drug,” says Dr Daniel Teper, founder and CEO of Immune Pharmaceuticals of Tel Aviv.  The method was developed by a team under the Dean of Hebrew University Pharmacy School, Shimon Benita, who chairs Immune’s scientific advisory board.  The drug has a double targeting mechanism, it goes through vessels into tissue and the antibody gets right into the cell.  It is being said in the medical world that the future of medicine, and specifically the future of treating cancer, is in this targeted missile system.

(For more on this and other medical discoveries, Google “Immune Pharmaceuticals.”)

·         Turning to solar energy, researchers have been trying for the last forty years to develop double-sided solar cells that can capture both direct and reflected sunlight. Israeli startup BSolar showcased their bifacial solar cells at a trade show in Germany. Their cells could produce up to 20% more energy than conventional cells. And although it took a while, Kibbutz Yahel, 60km north of Eilat, has recently become the first solar kibbutz in Israel. Solar panels have been installed on 45 roofs - about 70% of the buildings – to give kibbutzniks full control of their electricity costs.

(With thanks to Michael Ordman’s “Israel Good News letter)

·         Forty-two Israeli children, all of whom have lost a parent who was serving in the Israel Defence Forces, are at present being hosted for three weeks of pure fun by various Jewish communities in North America. They are travelling from Chicago to NYC, Stamford and finally to Toronto.  Nothing can compensate for the loss of a parent  but we wish these young people a wonderful trip and are sure that they will return feeling renewed and better able to cope with life.

·         The world’s largest and most advanced “fortified hospital” was unveiled this week at Rambam Medical Center in Haifa. The 2,000 bed underground hospital is designed to keep patients and staff safe dozens of meters below ground even if missiles and rockets are falling above ground – in case the city ever faces the kind of attack it did during the Second Lebanon War.

RAYS OF LIGHT

We hadn’t realized the depressing effects of spending hours daily on ‘hasbara’ work until we escaped last month, for a week’s holiday in Crete where we did not even see a computer or newspaper for the entire time that we were there.  The daily reading of anti-Israel articles and more and more about BDS (Boycotts, Divestment and Sanctions) is not good for the morale although the many positive aspects about life in Israel that we try to stress in our articles, are rays of light in an often gloomy world. 

A WEEK IN CRETE

Sometimes people can also be rays of light as were many of the Cretans we met in our hotel and in the local shops and restaurants.    They were almost all special in their genuine desire to give not only service but also pleasure to their visitors.  Exploring small mountain villages together with Norma & Leon Pinnick who joined us for the week, we met many of these kind and dignified people. One encounter especially stands out in our minds, we went in search of cold drinks on a scorching-hot morning, high in the mountains, to a tiny taverna, probably normally only frequented by the locals.  The wonderful view over a valley and mountains in the distance having tempted us to go into what was little more than a shack with four tables and a huge window overlooking the view.  The only people in sight were an elderly couple who were obviously the owners and who were happy to supply our order but the old man also insisted on showing off his garden produce to us and keeping us entertained.  First he went into the garden and picked some ripe apricots which he washed and cut up for us, followed by mint and aromatic herbs for us to smell after which,  he brought a jug of homemade  raki for the men to try.  Finally he came back from the garden carrying a baby goat, saying, “Him good boy,” and placed him in Lola’s arms.  The goat seemed to enjoy being cuddled as much as Lola enjoyed cuddling him.

KINDNESS FROM JEWS AND ARABS

A few days after our return home we were all set to go out for a busy morning of errands when the car refused to start, a neighbor kindly and courteously gave up his time to get us started with our jump-leads and concerned for us, made us promise that we would go straight to a garage which we immediately did.  At our garage, a small but very efficient one in the little Arab village of Beit Safafa adjacent to Gilo, from where a new battery had been purchased very recently, we received speedy and courteous service from Kamal, one of the four brothers who own the garage and all of whom are dedicated to keeping our ancient car on the road for as long as possible.  The battery was replaced with a new one very speedily and we were assured that as it had been under guarantee there was nothing to pay and with good wishes and warm handshakes we were sent on our way.   The warmth with which we were treated made up for the annoyance of the messed up morning.

KNESSET MEETING

Maybe another ray of light should be the assurance that we received from the British Ambassador to Israel at a meeting yesterday at the Knesset that there is virtually no increase in anti-Semitism and anti-Semitic attacks in the U.K. and that we and other ‘hasbara’ groups are far too concerned about the situation.  This assurance followed our various presentations citing horrendous incidents on university campuses and elsewhere and incitement to violence from extreme Islamic groups.  According to the Ambassador this situation is exaggerated, barely exists and we are all worrying unnecessarily which is indeed cheering news.  It did, however, lead us to wonder why all Jewish schools, synagogues etc. in the U.K. have to be heavily guarded these days but unfortunately time did not allow that question to be asked.  I only wish that we had not all left the meeting feeling so skeptical.

UTOPIA

A VISIT TO UTOPIA



We don’t get out of Jerusalem very often these days so we were delighted to have the opportunity to go with friends to visit a place near to Netanya  that has the alluring name of Utopia. 

We were not quite sure what to expect but these gardens are indeed utopia, especially for people who love orchids.  Here we enjoyed a feast for the eyes of every kind of orchid in every possible shape and colour and all in full flower and perfect condition.  There were also rose and cactus gardens, a topiary garden musical waterfalls and bird and animal exhibits but it is the superb orchids, growing in every imaginable place, out of the trees, rocks and crevices in the simulated tropical rain forest that will long remain in our minds.

KAKUN CASTLE

While we were in the area we also visited the remains of Kakun Castle which is situated in the Hefer valley and was  built on an already ancient site which was first inhabited during the Bronze Age period (3150-2200 B.C.E.)  A 13th Century German Dominican who travelled to the Holy Land identified the site with Michmethah, a city in the possession of Ephraim, (Joshua 16:6 )”And the border went out toward the sea to Michmethah on the north side and the border went about eastward unto Taanathshiloh, and passed by it on the east to Janohah”) The castle, then called, Caco or Cacho, was  in existence in the Crusader period and an 8.5 metre tower still survives and now has the Israeli flag flying proudly from it.  The castle had a stormy history, having been captured by the Mamalukes and later coming under Ottoman rule. The castle ruins are picturesque and surrounded by greenery and there are wonderful views over the surrounding plain where one can see signs of intensive agriculture. At the site there is also an unusual memorial to those who fell fighting an Iraqi battalion which was completely destroyed, in the 1948 Arab- Israeli war. The site was recently declared a National park by the Israeli Nature and Parks Authority.

THE SCROLL OF FIRE

On our way home, nearing Jerusalem, and wanting to make the most of our day out, we made one more visit, to marvel at the imposing Scroll of Fire sculpture by Warsaw-born Nathan Rapoport situated in the Martyrs forest.  This forest is comprised symbolically of six million trees.  The four and a half million pine trees represent the adults who perished in the Holocaust, the million and half cypress trees, account for the children who were murdered.  This amazing memorial shows scenes of Jewish history and walking round the monument and viewing it from different angles, one can see recurring themes, a mother and child, an olive branch and a menorah as well as much symbolism.  There are scenes of the holocaust, Jews being marched off to concentration camps by faceless German soldiers, represented only by their helmets and bayonets, the Warsaw Ghetto and its defenders, among whom are an angel bearing a Molotov cocktail and a bearded man bearing a rock.  The survivors are seen leaving the camps and a small boat represents the thousands who came to Israel in the pre-State days and an olive tree whose branches are formed from human bodies is an allegory for renewal.  One could spend many hours viewing this incredible piece of sculpture, working out the themes and marvelling at the minute detail and expressions on the many faces.

This was altogether a memorable day out and we strongly recommend all these sites that we enjoyed so much to everyone, Israelis and tourists alike.

A wonderful mini-tour of Israel, worth watching.

"http://www.youtube.com/embed/tLgdb6r0MQ4?rel=0"

NEWS ABOUT ISRAEL THAT YOU ARE UNLIKELY TO FIND IN THE MEDIA

·         A song that falsely presents all of Israel’s land as Palestinian land has just been broadcast by Palestinian Authority T.V. for the 27^th time. First broadcast at a Fatah event last year in the presence of PA Chairman Mahmoud Abbas and many other senior Palestinian officials, the Palestinian singer declares that “my land” and “our coast” span from Rosh Hanikra in Israel’s north to Rafah in the Gaza Strip in the South and from Haifa on Israel’s western coast to Beit Shean on Israel’s Eastern border.  The fact that PA T.V. which is under the direct control of Abbas’ office, chose to broadcast this song numerous times suggests the centrality of the song’s message to PA ideology.  For the complete article and words of the song click on:      http://www.palwatch.org/main.aspx?fi=157&doc_id=6914)

(Palestinian Media Watch)

·         Israeli scientists at Haifa’s Technion-Rambam Hospital have taken the initial step to repair damaged heart muscle. They are the first researchers to re-programme healthy stem cells from the skin of heart patients and turn them into healthy heart cells.  In the next decade, the scientists predict that they will be able to repair damaged hearts.  (Israeli Good News Letter.)      http://www.jpost.com/Health/Article.aspx?id=271214)

Here are two wonderful Videos from Israel Up Close about Peace Projects for Kids:

·         Jewish and Arab children together with their teachers and parents have been participating in Jerusalem’s Bible Lands Museum project called “The Image of Abraham.” The programme seeks to bridge cultural gaps and overcome negative stereotypes.  The seminar is based on understanding our common heritage through the project’s themes which are inspired by Abraham/Ibrahim, Patriarch to Jews, Christians and Muslims.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRwmKTuRN0E

·         The idea of using martial arts to foster peace and harmony may seem like a contradiction in terms.  However, a new project has taken root in Israel called “Budo for Peace,” which brings Arabs and Jews together in an effort to build trust and encourage dialogue.  These youngsters come from Palestinian, Bedouin and Israeli towns.  The project has already produced several world champions in judo and karate.

http://www.israelupclose.org/volume_16.html#a

·         354,000 visitors entered Israel this April setting a new record, the number being 19 percent more than in April 2010, previously, Israel’s record year for tourism.  This according to Israel’s Tourist Ministry.  In addition, more than one million visitors arrived in Israel between January and April of this year, 4 percent more than the previous record.

·         While digging under Robinson’s Arch in the archeological garden next to the Western Wall in Jerusalem, archeologists have found remains of a structure from the late First temple period.  This is the closest structure, geographically, to King Solomon’s Temple, ever unearthed.  On the floor of the ancient structure, the diggers discovered an ancient Hebrew seal from the late First temple period.  It is made of semi-precious stone and bears the name of the owner of the seal: “to Matanyahu Son of Ho…” the rest of the name is not legible.  The name Matanyahu, which means a gift from G-d appears twice in the book of Chronicles.  Private  seals in First Temple times served people for signing documents and were set on rings, this one is less than one inch in diameter.